Siding Replacement & Installation in Portland, OR

Replace Old, Failing, or Moisture-Damaged Siding. James Hardie Fiber Cement. Vinyl. Cedar. Engineered Wood. Proper Moisture Barriers Included on Every Job. Licensed OR #241979 | WA #VRESHCL776ND.

Real estate agent showing a house to a family on the neighborhood sidewalk. The agent is holding papers and pointing at the house, while the family listens. In the background, someone is working on the house's exterior. The scene is on a cloudy day with trees and parked cars.

Portland homeowners replace their siding for one of four reasons: the existing siding is visually deteriorated and affecting curb appeal, it has active rot at the bottom courses or around windows, it is a material that has failed at scale (early LP siding, Masonite hardboard, original vinyl that has brittled), or it is single-wythe wood that has been painted so many times it can no longer hold paint. All four are situations VResh addresses every week. A siding replacement is one of the most significant exterior investments a Portland homeowner can make — and one of the most consequential if done incorrectly. New siding installed over an improperly prepared substrate, without the right moisture barrier, without proper flashing at all penetrations, or without the correct clearances from grade and rooflines will fail well before its rated lifespan. In the meantime, it may hide water infiltration that's silently rotting the framing behind it.

VResh Construction has completed hundreds of siding projects across Portland, OR, and Southwest Washington. We install James Hardie fiber cement, premium vinyl, cedar, and engineered wood siding, and we do it correctly: full removal of old siding, inspection of the substrate for moisture damage and dry rot, installation of a proper drainage plane, correct flashing at all windows, doors, and penetrations, and the right material clearances from grade and rooflines. If we find dry rot under the old siding — which we frequently do — we repair it before the new siding goes on. Every time.

A group of five construction workers standing and sitting outside a white company van, smiling and engaging in conversation. There is a window frame leaning against the van and a ladder nearby. The van has advertising for a construction company and a large storefront window leaning against it. The background shows leafless trees and a paved parking lot.

(503) 272-6436 — Call or Text, Available 24/7

We answer calls and texts at any hour. For storm damage, active leaks, or structural emergencies, calling directly is the fastest path to a response.

What Most Portland Homeowners Don't Know About Siding Replacement

Portland's climate is uniquely demanding for exterior siding. Annual rainfall of 37 inches, months of sustained wet weather, and the specific combination of driving rain and ambient moisture create conditions where siding installation technique is the difference between a 30-year installation and a 12-year problem. Here are the three most common installation failures we correct in Portland homes — often hidden behind what appears to be new siding that was installed improperly years earlier.

Missing or Incorrect Moisture Barrier (Weather-Resistant Barrier)

A weather-resistive barrier (WRB) — housewrap or building paper — is the critical layer between the siding and the sheathing that manages moisture that gets behind the siding. In Portland's climate, some moisture always gets behind siding. Without a properly installed WRB, moisture can enter the sheathing and framing. Most older Portland homes have degraded building paper or no WRB at all. Every VResh siding project includes the installation or replacement of a proper WRB — it is not optional or an add-on.

Missing Flashing at Windows, Doors, and Penetrations

Every window, door, utility penetration, and deck ledger that breaks through the siding plane is a potential water entry point. Proper flashing — head flashing above windows, kickout flashing at roof-to-wall intersections, and through-wall flashing at deck attachments — directs water away from these intersections and to the exterior. When these flashings are absent or improperly installed, water runs straight into the wall cavity. We flash every penetration, every time.

Incorrect Bottom-Course Clearances

James Hardie and virtually all fiber cement and wood siding manufacturers specify a minimum clearance from the bottom course of siding to grade (typically 6 inches) and to rooflines (typically 2 inches above roof flashing). These clearances exist to prevent wicking, splash-back saturation, and direct water contact at the most vulnerable parts of the siding. Siding installed without these clearances — extremely common in budget contractor work — wicks moisture from the soil and rots from the bottom up, often before the rest of the siding has shown any problems.

Our Siding Installation Process — Every Step on Every Project

#
Item
What We Do — And Why It Matters
PREPARATION — REMOVAL AND ASSESSMENT
1
Full siding removal
Remove existing siding completely to expose the substrate (sheathing or studs). We do not install over existing siding. Full removal is required to install a drainage plane and inspect the substrate properly.
2
Substrate inspection
Inspect all sheathing for moisture damage, delamination, mold, and structural concerns. Inspect all visible perimeter framing members for rot. Document all findings in writing.
3
Dry rot assessment
If rot is found — and it frequently is, especially at window and door corners, at bottom courses, and at roof-to-wall intersections — we assess the extent and provide a written scope for structural repair before siding proceeds.
4
Lead test (pre-1978 homes)
For pre-1978 homes, test all disturbed paint surfaces and follow EPA RRP protocols throughout the project — containment, work practices, cleanup, and documentation.
STRUCTURAL REPAIR (IF NEEDED)
5
Dry rot repair
Remove all compromised structural material — sheathing, framing members, rim joists, and blocking. Install new pressure-treated or kiln-dried lumber where appropriate. Correct the moisture pathway that caused the rot before re-sheathing.
6
Sheathing repair or replacement
Replace any delaminated or compromised sheathing panels. Confirm that the sheathing is properly nailed per the current code before proceeding.
MOISTURE MANAGEMENT — DRAINAGE PLANE AND FLASHING
7
Weather-Resistant Barrier (WRB)
Install new housewrap or building paper over the entire wall area. Lap all seams correctly — upper courses over lower — so water can only move outward. In older homes, this is often a full replacement of degraded building paper.
8
Window and door flashing
Flash all window and door openings — head flashing above, sill pan at base, jamb flashing at sides — properly lapped into the WRB. This is the single most important step to prevent the water infiltration we see behind old siding on a large percentage of Portland homes.
9
Kickout flashing at roof-to-wall intersections
Install kickout flashing diverters at the point where a roof surface meets a sidewall. Without kickout flashing, all water running down the roof surface enters the wall cavity directly at this intersection.
10
Through-wall flashing at deck attachments
Flash all deck ledger connections through the WRB to prevent water entry at the most structurally critical exterior attachment point.
SIDING INSTALLATION
11
Starter strip and bottom-course setup
Establish proper bottom-course height with correct clearance from grade (minimum 6 inches for James Hardie; check manufacturer specs for other materials). The starter strip provides the correct tilt angle for the bottom course.
12
Siding installation — manufacturer spec
Install siding per manufacturer specifications: correct exposure, correct fasteners (hot-dip galvanized or stainless per manufacturer spec), correct nailing pattern, and correct lap. Incorrect fasteners cause staining and nail-pop over time.
13
Corner and trim details
Install corner trim (or mitered corners per architect specification), window and door trim, frieze board, and all transition pieces. All cuts are back-primed before installation.
14
Caulking protocol
Caulk all required joints per the manufacturer's specification. Critical: James Hardie requires specific caulk products and specific locations — not all joints are caulked, and caulking where it shouldn't be traps water. Follow the manufacturer's caulking guide, not general practice.
FINISHING AND DOCUMENTATION
15
Painting or priming
All field-cut ends are back-primed before installation. Touch up primer coat on all cut ends. If the project includes painting, apply a finish coat. If the homeowner is painting separately, leave in factory primer condition with all cuts properly primed.
16
Cleanup and final inspection
Full job-site cleanup. Walk through with the homeowner, review what was done, identify any conditions noted during the project, and provide written warranty documentation.

Siding Materials We Install — Which Is Right for Your Portland Home?

James Hardie Fiber Cement — Our Most-Recommended Product

James Hardie is the #1 recommended siding product for Portland homes, and for compelling reasons. Fiber cement does not rot, does not warp, resists insects, resists fire, and holds paint for 10–15 years — significantly longer than wood. It carries a 30-year limited manufacturer's warranty.

James Hardie's ColorPlus factory-finish option provides a baked-on finish that outperforms field-applied paint. Available in over 700 colors with a 15-year fade warranty.

HardiePlank lap siding most closely matches the appearance of traditional wood lap siding — visually indistinguishable in most applications.

The correct installation of James Hardie siding requires specific fastener types, specific clearances from grade and rooflines, specific caulk products, and specific back-priming protocols. Failure to follow these requirements voids the manufacturer's warranty.

Cedar Siding — Authentic Character, Higher Maintenance

Clear western red cedar provides an authentic character that no engineered product can fully replicate. It is visually stunning when properly maintained.

The trade-off: cedar requires regular painting or staining (every 5–7 years), is susceptible to moisture damage and rot if maintenance lapses, and requires the most precise installation of any siding material.

Cedar is appropriate for homeowners who are committed to regular maintenance and value the authentic aesthetic above all else.

For cedar siding on any pre-1978 home, the same EPA Lead-Safe considerations apply as with any other siding removal work.

Vinyl Siding — Cost-Effective for the Right Application

Vinyl is a cost-effective siding option that performs well in mild climates when installed properly. It does not require painting, does not rot, and is low-maintenance.

Limitations in Portland's climate: Vinyl can fade, become brittle in extreme cold, and is more susceptible to impact damage than fiber cement. It also has a notably different visual character than wood or fiber cement.

Vinyl is an appropriate choice for rental properties, budget-constrained projects, and applications where visual character is less important than cost.

Important: Even vinyl siding requires a proper WRB and correct flashing. "Vinyl doesn't rot" does not mean the sheathing behind improperly installed vinyl doesn't rot.

Engineered Wood (LP SmartSide) — Best of Both Worlds

LP SmartSide is the leading engineered wood siding product — manufactured from wood strands treated with a resin binder and a zinc borate preservative that resists moisture, rot, and insects.

LP SmartSide looks and works much like real wood, accepts paint readily, and carries a 50-year limited warranty.

LP SmartSide is an excellent alternative to cedar for homeowners who want the visual character of wood siding without the same maintenance demands.

Generally priced between vinyl and James Hardie — a strong mid-range option.

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Client's Talk

We have a wealth of experience working as main building contractors on all kinds of projects, big and small, from home maintenance and improvements to extensions, refurbishments and new builds.

What Does Siding Replacement Cost in Portland, OR?

General Cost Ranges — Portland, OR (Labor + Materials)

  • Full home siding replacement, vinyl, standard Portland ranch or bungalow: $12,000–$22,000
  • Full home siding replacement, James Hardie HardiePlank, primed: $18,000–$35,000
  • Full home siding replacement, James Hardie ColorPlus (factory finish): $22,000–$45,000+
  • Full home siding replacement, LP SmartSide: $16,000–$28,000
  • Partial siding replacement (one or two elevations): Priced per square foot — ask for estimate
  • Add $2,000–$12,000 for extensive dry rot structural repair (highly variable)

[FLAG — Verify these ranges with Vlad before publishing. Pricing changes regularly.]

Spring Special

$500 off siding projects over $8,000.

Free moisture and dry rot inspection included with all qualifying siding projects.

Siding Replacement on Portland's Pre-1978 Homes

A substantial portion of the Portland-area homes we re-side were built before 1978. Lead-based paint is present in a large percentage of these homes — on the existing siding, trim, window frames, and surrounding surfaces. Federal EPA RRP rules require contractors performing this work to hold Lead-Safe Certification, follow specific containment and cleanup protocols, and provide written documentation. VResh Construction is EPA Lead-Safe Certified. Most Portland siding contractors are not. Ask for certification documentation before hiring any contractor to perform siding removal and replacement on a pre-1978 home.

⚠️  Siding Removal on Pre-1978 Homes — What Non-Certified Contractors Miss

Siding removal on a pre-1978 home without proper Lead-Safe protocols creates lead dust. Lead dust from a single day of improper siding removal can contaminate interior surfaces, soil, and landscaping.

Fines for EPA RRP violations can reach $37,500 per day per violation.

A non-certified contractor cannot provide the required written documentation of Lead-Safe compliance, which may affect your home's record and your family's safety.

VResh Construction follows full EPA RRP protocols on every pre-1978 siding project and provides written documentation.

Serving Portland Metro Area

VResh Construction provides window replacement, siding installation, roofing, dry rot repair and full exterior renovation services throughout the Portland metro area and Southwest Washington.

Portland Metro — Oregon

Portland, OR
Oak Grove, OR
Cedar Mill, OR
King City, OR
Happy Valley, OR
Clackamas, OR
Milwaukie, OR
Gresham, OR
Wood Village, OR
Scappoose, OR
Sandy, OR
Newberg, OR
Estacada, OR
Lake Oswego, OR
Beaverton, OR
Hillsboro, OR
Tigard, OR
Sherwood, OR
West Linn, OR
Oregon City, OR

Southwest Washington

Vancouver, WA
Battle Ground, WA
Woodland, WA
Camas, WA
Ridgefield, WA
Washougal, WA
Kalama, WA

Extended Service Areas

Longview, WA
Kelso, WA
Salem, OR
Seaside, OR
Lincoln City, OR
Long Beach, WA
OUR FAQS

Siding Replacement FAQs — Portland Homeowners

How much does siding replacement cost in Portland, OR?
General ranges for a full home siding replacement: vinyl runs $12,000–$22,000; James Hardie HardiePlank primed runs $18,000–$35,000; James Hardie ColorPlus factory finish runs $22,000–$45,000+. These figures assume a standard Portland ranch or bungalow (1,200–2,000 sq ft of siding area) with no major structural repairs required. Homes with extensive dry rot, complex rooflines, or multi-story layouts may be priced differently. We provide a free, detailed written estimate after an on-site inspection.
Can you install new siding over existing siding?
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We do not recommend it and we do not perform siding-over-siding installations. Installing new siding over old material adds unnecessary weight to the wall, prevents inspection of the underlying substrate, and stops proper installation of a drainage plane. It can also leave hidden moisture damage untreated. Most siding manufacturer warranties are void if siding is installed over existing cladding, which is why full removal is the correct approach.
How long does siding replacement take?
+
A full home siding replacement on a typical Portland ranch or two-story bungalow usually takes about 5–10 days for installation. The timeline depends on crew size, weather conditions, and whether structural repairs such as dry rot replacement are needed. We provide a detailed timeline and schedule during the estimate process so homeowners know exactly what to expect.
How long does James Hardie siding last?
+
Properly installed James Hardie fiber cement siding carries a 30-year limited manufacturer warranty and often lasts 50 years or more with routine maintenance. Maintenance generally includes repainting every 10–15 years. By comparison, wood siding often lasts 15–20 years and vinyl typically lasts 20–25 years. Proper installation is critical, including correct clearances, fasteners, flashing, and a properly installed weather-resistive barrier.
What if dry rot is found when you remove the old siding?
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Dry rot is a common discovery during siding replacement projects. If rot is found, we pause the installation and assess the extent of the damage. We then provide a written scope and cost for the structural repair before continuing. All compromised material is removed, structural repairs are completed, the moisture source is corrected, and then the siding installation proceeds. This ensures the new siding is installed on a properly repaired structure.
Do you offer siding repair or only full replacement?
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We provide both full siding replacement and targeted siding repair. When damage is limited to one or two elevations or specific areas such as the bottom courses, partial replacement or repair may be the most practical and cost-effective solution. Our goal is to recommend the option that best fits the condition of the home rather than defaulting to full replacement when repair is sufficient.